doubledown's 5200 Digital Edition - VVG Enhanced Controller (A new high-priced Masterplay (and clones) eliminator)

[doubledown]

Well after finishing my 5200 Edition - VVG Paddle Controller, I figured I'd take a stab at a high-quality, full-featured, standalone joystick controller for the 5200.  So unveiling my 5200 Digital Edition - VVG Enhanced Controller:

 

--with a short black Bat Knob handle (mimicking the CX-52 joysticks)

 

 

--or for that authentic arcade feel, with a 1.5" red Ball Knob handle (mimicking the WICO arcade sticks):

 

 

Built into a Hammond Mfg 17" x 11.25" aluminum enclosure and featuring:

*iL Eurostick 8-way joystick w/ Cherry micro-switches (necessary for their NO & NC contacts)

*iL standard length, threaded SST shaft w/ Crown joystick bat-top (Black)

  -or

*iL extended length, threaded SST shaft w/ Wico 38mm joystick ball-top (Red)

*iL PSL-L concave push-buttons w/ Rollie leaf-switches (2-Red)

*Sanwa OBSF24 24mm push-butons (1-Black/Green (Start), 1-Black/Yellow (Pause), 1-Black/Red (Reset), & 12-Black/Black (keypad buttons)

*10' controller cable

*Custom CPO artwork

 

The 3 potentiometers across the top of the joystick are used to adjust the resistance values for maximum left, center, and maximum right, and the 3 along the right side of the joystick are used to adjust the resistance values for maximum up, center, and maximum down.  This full-spectrum control allows for maximum game and console compatibility, and the potentiometer knobs are black Phenolic plastic with aluminum inlays for that vintage look and feel.  

 

Now I just need to decide if I should build a twin-stick variant for Robotron: 2084 & Space Dungeon.  

[Giles N]

1 hour ago, doubledown said:

Well after finishing my 5200 Edition - VVG Paddle Controller, I figured I'd take a stab at a high-quality, full-featured, standalone joystick controller for the 5200.  So unveiling my 5200 Digital Edition - VVG Enhanced Controller:

 

--with a short black Bat Knob handle (mimicking the CX-52 joysticks)

 

 

--or for that authentic arcade feel, with a 1.5" red Ball Knob handle (mimicking the WICO arcade sticks):

 

 

Built into a Hammond Mfg 17" x 11.25" aluminum enclosure and featuring:

*iL Eurostick 8-way joystick w/ Cherry micro-switches (necessary for their NO & NC contacts)

*iL standard length, threaded SST shaft w/ Crown joystick bat-top (Black)

  -or

*iL extended length, threaded SST shaft w/ Wico 38mm joystick ball-top (Red)

*iL PSL-L concave push-buttons w/ Rollie leaf-switches (2-Red)

*Sanwa OBSF24 24mm push-butons (1-Black/Green (Start), 1-Black/Yellow (Pause), 1-Black/Red (Reset), & 12-Black/Black (keypad buttons)

*10' controller cable

*Custom CPO artwork

 

The 3 potentiometers across the top of the joystick are used to adjust the resistance values for maximum left, center, and maximum right, and the 3 along the right side of the joystick are used to adjust the resistance values for maximum up, center, and maximum down.  This full-spectrum control allows for maximum game and console compatibility, and the potentiometer knobs are black Phenolic plastic with aluminum inlays for that vintage look and feel.  

 

Now I just need to decide if I should build a twin-stick variant for Robotron: 2084 & Space Dungeon.  

Looks awesome: please consider producing such as these for sale.

(of course I understand some revenue may be wanted).

[eegt97]

Wow, that looks great, pot adjustments right there, nice!!!

[0078265317]

Awesome indeed.  How do you make the shells?

[doubledown]

9 hours ago, Giles N said:

Looks awesome: please consider producing such as these for sale.

(of course I understand some revenue may be wanted).

They could be made available, but I'd have to sit down and look at the cost grid to get an idea what they would price out at.   I can assure you that this isn't an "inexpensive" 5200 controller alternative.  My goal was to create an arcade-quality, full-featured digital arcade-stick controller for the 5200...not a half-featured controller (or adapter) that had to be plugged into some other half-featured controller (or adapter).  This way all of the necessary 5200 controls/buttons are right at your fingertips comfortably in your lap, or on a desk in front of you.  

 

5 hours ago, eegt97 said:

Wow, that looks great, pot adjustments right there, nice!!!

I originally planned on installing the potentiometers in two rows below the keypad buttons, but installing them surrounding the joystick just makes it easier to understand which pot does what, and this larger enclosure allowed for the extra room necessary for this layout.   

 

1 hour ago, 0078265317 said:

Awesome indeed.  How do you make the shells?

The black powder-coated aluminum enclosure is a purchased item, then I use a CNC mill at work for machining the necessary holes.  It's really the only way to guarantee perfect alignment of the rows & columns, of buttons and pots, as well as for making proper clearanced holes for the installed hardware, without any unnecessary slop.  

Edited January 19, 2020 by doubledown

[Giles N]

We need a Poll for how many here would be interested in ordering a high-quality 5200-joystick/controller for a price of between 150-250$ 

 

... in my opinion...

[doubledown]

The biggest problem with any sort of poll, or group voting scenario for a "new" hardware/software item, is that you'll never get more than 2 or 3 people to agree wholly on anything, when initially the sky is the limit.  Without a "concept" already hashed out there are too many options or wish-list items that some would want, that others may not.  About the only thing you could get "everybody" to agree on is the price...it should cost less than $20.  Regarding some sort of 5200 controller there are many factors to consider:

 

Housing

-Handheld (plastic or metal)

-Lap/Table top (small or large) (wood, plastic, or metal)

 

Joystick

-Digital (full-sized or thumbstick)

-Analog (full-sized of thumbstick)

 

Joystick Centering (and resistance range)

-PIC control

-Potentiometers (centering only or full range capable)

 

Keypad

-Membrane keypad

-Tactile keypad

-Arcade style button matrix

 

Paddle

-To include or not

 

All of these variables can greatly affect the hardware costs of the unit, not to mention the time it will take someone to build/assemble/test the units.  A lot of people make their homemade controllers into some sort of wooden box enclosure.  This can obviously be very inexpensive (cost-wise for the wood) and the tools necessary to make this can be very minimal (such as a jig saw and a drill), up to a full-blown wood shop.  But then how much time does it take to cut the wood pieces, assemble the enclosure (including glue drying time if applicable), then sanding, and painting and the likes.  Then when it's all said and done, how good does it really look...depends on the woodworker's skills/tools.  With some scrap wood laying around the house the "cost" of a wooden enclosure can be negligible, but if it then takes 6-8 hours to build the enclosure...how much did it really "cost", assuming your time has value.  I chose this series of aluminum enclosures because they are big enough to suit my needs, not ridiculously expensive ($40-$65 depending on size), and once I receive it, it's ready to work with.  But as it's metal, some don't have means to machine it...I happen to have access to a CNC mill at work, so for me it's a no-brainer.  I'd rather spend the "money" buying the factory finished enclosure, rather than building one out of wood and spending the "time" to do so.  With all that said, I still spend about 2 hours stiffening, bracing, and machining the enclosures after I receive them to get them ready for assembly.  

 

Then you can get into the hardware.  There can be a very wide range of cost here depending on what hardware is to be included, and which components are then selected.  The (15) buttons I purchased for the S/P/R & (12) keypad buttons are legitimate, arcade key-switch push-buttons (Sanwa OBSF24s), and cost about $2.35 ea. ($35.25 for the 15 used).  That's a lot more expensive than a $5 or $10 membrane keypad from sources like Amazon, ebay, or Adafruit...but I can guarantee they will last near indefinitely, especially when compared to the lifespan of a membrane keypad, especially the cheaper ones.  

 

I set out to build an arcade-quality joystick controller for myself to enjoy some 5200 games, and decided the sky was the limit...regarding the features/options I wanted, and the components I selected to build it with.  A lot of people are completely satisfied with a Genesis control pad and an adapter where the keypad is 5 feet away from them, and others still are satisfied playing in emulation with a keyboard.  Without a large scale mass-production/assembly line set in place, I don't think there will ever be a "cheap" alternative for a full-featured 5200 controller, so those who want something different/better than a CX-52 will just have to make something for themselves, or wait for others to create something that they can buy.  

 

I looked at my costs for this controller the other day, and I think if I were to sell this edition, it would be "around" the $350 range.  But this is the "no compromises, I'm an adult with money" variant, obviously a less expensive controller could be made, and that less expensive controller could be even cheaper, if the builder didn't charge for their time/labor.  But like I said, I was building the controller I wanted to play with, with little regard for it's cost.  

[+-^CrossBow^-]

That is an excellent looking controller! Only suggestion is that with so much space open on the controller itself, how about an indentation of the same size with tab inserts to actually insert the overlays for the game you are playing as a reference? Like Star Raiders or Space Shuttle would need their overlays handy and at the ready to play them. Would be nice if there was a spot to just place in semi easy view while playing?

 

[+sramirez2008]

Wow what a controller.  A twin-stick version would be great!

[doubledown]

1 hour ago, -^CrossBow^- said:

That is an excellent looking controller! Only suggestion is that with so much space open on the controller itself, how about an indentation of the same size with tab inserts to actually insert the overlays for the game you are playing as a reference? Like Star Raiders or Space Shuttle would need their overlays handy and at the ready to play them. Would be nice if there was a spot to just place in semi easy view while playing?

 

That's not a bad idea...I never thought of that.  I obviously realized that the overlays wouldn't work with my button matrix, so I just kind of put it out of my mind, but simply having a holder for them for reference could work.  Best place would be below the "keypad" area, as your palms/wrists rest over the areas below the joystick and fire buttons.  I'll have to look into this.  

 

41 minutes ago, sramirez2008 said:

Wow what a controller.  A twin-stick version would be great!

If I do a twin stick for myself, I'll theme it after the Space Dungeon arcade cabinet.  I realize that Robotron: 2084 is a much more popular game, but I already made myself a Robotron: 2084 twin stick controller for the 8-bit/7800:

 

 

...and I can't have 2 of the same theme!  Plus I'd rather do something new/different.

[+sramirez2008]

40 minutes ago, doubledown said:

If I do a twin stick for myself, I'll theme it after the Space Dungeon arcade cabinet.

That would be cool. I’ve never seen a custom stick that included the Space Dungeon graphics?

[doubledown]

I don't think I have either...and fortunately the CPO graphics are simple, and would be very easy to replicate:

 

 

I already have the white buttons, white ball knobs, and a couple of different tactile keypads (with replaceable legends) that I bought with other parts orders...just in case I decided to build it.  All I would need is the enclosure, 2 joysticks and the potentiometers/knobs.  FYI, I borrowed the "directional arrow artwork" around Space Dungeon's 2nd joystick for my 5200 controller above.  I just changed the white coloring to blue to match the ATARI 5200 logo on the CPO.