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Is it possible to fasten this female into shielding like it originally was?  It seems to have slipped out everytime I put in a coaxial.  Otherwise it is fine.  I have no clue how it originally was.

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Edited by Polish.Gasoline

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Better question:

Where can I get one of these?  It appears to be soldered on.  Call me an idiot but there must be somewhere I can buy this part.  There is nothing else wrong with this intellivision.

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Ah, okay. Was going to say, a low wattage soldering iron usually isn't up to the task. Need to heat both the jack and RF box up so the solder can melt/meld into both of them, solidifying the connection and securing the jack to the box.

 

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If the issue is solely that connector and the integrity of the main outer shell isn’t compromised, it sure would be easier and cheaper to only replace the connector.  
 

The picture is clean otherwise?  A game like Buzz Bombers or Astrosmash Has been known to show interference on the screen - at least in several cases I’ve seen. 
 

if you do end up replacing the entire Modulator be sure to get a good supply of desoldering braid if you don’t have access to a desoldering station. Those things used a lot of solder.  :D

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2 hours ago, intvsteve said:

Looks like you're in luck:

https://www.ebay.com/itm/ASTEC-UM1285-8-VHF-Intercarrier-Vestigial-Sideband-Modulator/183862312802?epid=19035260679&hash=item2acf0c3f62:g:OdIAAOSwRjVdFAD~

 

intvnut may have some on his site still -- not sure. LMK if neither of those work out for you.

Which website would that be exactly?  I'm unfamiliar.

 

1 hour ago, ChildOfCv said:

That's a panel mounted RCA jack.

 

https://www.amazon.com/Switchcraft-3501FR-Rear-Phono-Locknut/dp/B00RL8KS3S/

 

The replacements are meant to be threaded on, which would save you some soldering.  But it may also be possible to solder this onto the box too.  Either way, the "rear mount" should make it possible either way.

It's been ordered.  Thanks a lot!

 

45 minutes ago, intvsteve said:

If the issue is solely that connector and the integrity of the main outer shell isn’t compromised, it sure would be easier and cheaper to only replace the connector.  
 

The picture is clean otherwise?  A game like Buzz Bombers or Astrosmash Has been known to show interference on the screen - at least in several cases I’ve seen. 
 

if you do end up replacing the entire Modulator be sure to get a good supply of desoldering braid if you don’t have access to a desoldering station. Those things used a lot of solder.  :D

It's generally clean... Ok I have a confession.  While cleaning the jack with q tip, it had became dislodged.  To make the picture better.  So I was not sure what to do.  Unfortunately I do not have Astrosmash at the time but I do baseball and the first d and d.  It is crystal clear.

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Edited by Polish.Gasoline

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55 minutes ago, intvsteve said:

Cool. Do you have SNAFU? The “hissing” sound can cause interference, too. I’ve seen static appear when certain sounds play and the games I’ve mentioned do it most noticeably. 
 

RF modulators from Intv it:

http://leftturnonly.info/rf_modulators.html

Unfortunately, no not at this time.  I usually store my inty at a cottage and the games I listed are the only ones I have on me at this time.  However it worked fine until the q tip situation.😎  I have astrosmash and snafu.  I will have to wait till summer.

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Update.

 

I was taking apart the intellivision and took off the toasted rf jack.  I have one problem.  The hole is too small.  On to my question.

 

If I desolder the bottom off will it take off the middle?  There is the top, the middle and the bottom (Which is on the board.)  I want to know before proceeding so I can drill a bigger hole.  It would give me some relief I didn't leave some metal shavings when I am done.

 

Btw when I'll test in summer I meant with a bigger stash of games.

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Oh yeah, I should have noted that the threads would increase the through-hole size.  Hopefully it doesn't need to be so much bigger that there's no side material left.

 

Looks like the 4 bottom feet stick through the bottom pan.  So you'll have to de-solder them, then you should also de-solder the wires from the PCB, and then you can lift the entire box off.  Then the bottom should separate.  It appears from pictures that the internal board is not soldered in, only held in place by indents on the side.  The wires are soldered onto the board though, so you still need to be careful about not breaking those connections.

 

If you or a friend have a drill press, you can make the drill in a controlled, non-destructive manner.

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10 hours ago, Polish.Gasoline said:

Update.

 

I was taking apart the intellivision and took off the toasted rf jack.  I have one problem.  The hole is too small.  On to my question.

 

If I desolder the bottom off will it take off the middle?  There is the top, the middle and the bottom (Which is on the board.)  I want to know before proceeding so I can drill a bigger hole.  It would give me some relief I didn't leave some metal shavings when I am done.

 

Btw when I'll test in summer I meant with a bigger stash of games.

I'm lost here... Are you talking about the board cover or the actual RF box?   To remove the box, take off the whole unit as one piece.  If you break any of the little wires, not worries, you can use copper wires.  

 

As far as the RCA jack itself, you can solder it as mentioned above.  Just need more heat.  You can fix this problem, it's not as bad as it sounds.

 

What are you drilling?  

 

If all else fails .. buy another "untested" unit off of eBay.  You'll have a ton of extra parts that you'll need.  About 20 years ago, you could still buy those RF boxes.  No more.  You would think they would start reproducing them again seeing the huge market of people into old game system... 

 

Let us know how you're making out.   Happy to help any way I can.  I've fixed a ton of these and replaced many RF boxes, fixed them...etc.

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Edited by IMBerzerk

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If you are referring to removing the RF modulator (and not the top and bottom massive metal shields), then all you need to do is desolder the 4 wires of the RF modulator box and its 4 metal tabs that stick through the board.  I used a vacuum desoldering gun, but you can use solder braid or a vacuum pump though those take a little more patience.

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Another thing the ribbon cable is junk on the INTy.  I want to replace it.  What would it be listed as?  If anyone knows let me know.

 

Edit: It works fine.  It just doesn't look all that well.

Edited by Polish.Gasoline

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15 hours ago, Polish.Gasoline said:

Another thing the ribbon cable is junk on the INTy.  I want to replace it.  What would it be listed as?  If anyone knows let me know.

 

Edit: It works fine.  It just doesn't look all that well.

You aren't likely to find a direct replacement.  On the other hand, you don't really need to.  Measure the distance between pins for the cable, then look for a 5-pin plug matching that pitch.  You can get a single-ended cable assembly and matching plug to work there.  Solder the plug into the main PCB and the loose wires of the cable into the power module.  Then you can plug and unplug as necessary and don't have to worry about a brittle ribbon cable anymore.

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Posted (edited)

Hi again, I have some time the next couple days to tinker with this.  It was working fine with the phono replacement until I put the top shielding on.  I also had to fidget with the phono plug for it to work.  It changed from a black screen to a title screen.  It no longer does that.  I tried resoldering the resistor on the phono plug.  Left the shielding off the screen was black.  Did I f up something by putting the sheilding on?  Thanks in advance for input 

 

Edit: The black spot is from previous transistors that has been replaced, quite some time ago.

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Edited by Polish.Gasoline

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If the RF isn't making good contact, you should see static rather than black.

 

It could be that your cartridge contacts need to be cleaned.  When I got an Intv from eBay, almost none of the cartridges worked.  One worked on occasion, but otherwise black screen.  I opened up each cartridge, pulled the board out, scraped its contacts with a fiberglass pen, then put it back together.  I got all of the cartridges that came with it to work that way.  Note that some of the cartridges use triangle screws, so you may need to get a security bit set to open them.

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Posted (edited)

It's most definately not dirty.  Could it be the ribbon cable?  I cleaned it it and it did not solve the black screen issue.  I cleaned the game as well.  The ribbon cable has continuity so I'm really stuck.

 

I cleaned it with sandpaper and a old t shirt with a credit card also a eraser over a cartridge.  It did nothing.  The screen doesn't even flicker when I hit reset.

Edited by Polish.Gasoline

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Since you cleaned the ribbon cable, check that voltages are getting from the power supply to the board.  That ribbon cable is notorious for being fragile and coming part in some Intellivisions.

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Posted (edited)

I'm quite confident it is the ribbon connector.  It is quite in bad shape.  I've asked console5 if there was a replacement when it was working and he had said no, not yet.  Which is quite some time ago.  I'm kind of pissed that when I fix something another problem appears.  Oh well.  Is there a way to fix it?  I could hardwire it.  Did I answer my own question?   Lol.  I do not plan on taking it apart again   I had fixed and cleaned everything, replaced the capacitors.  So yeah.  It's just this ribbon connector.  It was working fine till I had placed the shielding on.

Edited by Polish.Gasoline

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