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1050 just keeps running....


YSG2020

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I knew when I bought this 1050 drive at the garage sale it would be the non-working item in the collection. Sure enough, when it’s switched on, it just runs/spins with the LED on constantly.  Doesn’t stop, regardless of the latch being closed or not. Doesn’t do the self diagnostic spin and then stop. It just keeps spinning...  Computer doesn’t even recognize it’s connected. No response nor errors. Nothing. On the upside, with a disk in it, it seems to spin it at the correct rpm so it would appear the belts are ok. Any ideas where to start (besides the dumpster?) Thx. 

Edited by YSG2020
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My hunch is bad 6810 RAM chip. Next down the list, the ROM chip. (Since it's executing enough to start spinning the motor...) then continue down the list 6507 CPU, 6532 RIOT.

 

If you have a working 1050, you can swap in IC's from it to this drive to determine the faulty one. Just ensure the WDC 2793/2797 controller stars with it's original board - they're factory calibrated to each drive.

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check the voltages first, the clean and re-seat the chips, work the drive select switches with cleaner as well, make sure all the jumper blocks are in the correct place and facing the correct direction... sometime people put them back incorrectly one of which is purposely inserted backwards from the factory... people put it in matching all the others (which is a no no)

 

they often miss by one pin on a block... even on the drive head block up front... I don't know why, but that's what happens... so once you are sure it's the right power in and the correct power from the regulators on the pcb, and did the cleaning/double check... your ready to check a couple capacitors and do the chip swap thing.

making sure the other odd bits like track sensor works etc... with power off move head half way out and see if it goes home at power on... etc etc.

Edited by _The Doctor__
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Checked voltages. Ok. Reseated all the socketed ICs. Worked the drive select switches well. Still just spins continuously with both LEDs on as soon as it’s switched on. 
I have a hunch someone may have plugged the cable plugs on the board backwards. Does anybody have a photo showing the correct jumper/plugs inserted properly? Thx. 

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Mine has the clear plugs with the colored wires in it for the longer plugs. And the red plugs for the shorter plugs. I’m guessing it’s a WST? So for the WST there does not appear to be one of the plugs inserted backwards?  It’s odd this unit doesn’t work, it looks absolutely mint in and out like brand new. Not a mark on it.  Not even yellowed. ?! I don’t think it’s ever been opened up or hardly used. Caps look good. Spins good. Gotta be fried IC’s. I bet it was victim of a power surge. I’m terrified to open up my cherished original and only working 1050 to swap ICs into this one.  Going to have to find another cheap used 1050 as a parts donor to experiment further. 

Edited by YSG2020
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2 hours ago, YSG2020 said:

I have a hunch someone may have plugged the cable plugs on the board backwards. Does anybody have a photo showing the correct jumper/plugs inserted properly? Thx. 

 

Ah yeah, now that you mention that yes - the connector between J10 and J12 is indeed supposed to be "backwards" looking compared to the rest. I did actually have a drive that someone previously connected that one reversed (so it looked nice and lined up with the rest) and I believe it resulted in the continuous disk spinning you are observing. Would be nice if this is all it is.

 

Here's a pic I took of the connector blocks (Photo originally taken to show J11 disconnected and temporarily replaced with a jumper block for always-write-enable)

post-53052-0-01288700-1551567545_thumb.jpg

 

And a picture by @1050 from this post.

Left_1050.png

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1 minute ago, YSG2020 said:

I saw that also. Thankyou. My drive is from the other manufacturer. Totally different plugs and wiring harnesses in it. Mine are clear plastic with all colored wires and totally different designed and shaped plugs also. 

OK, so you must have a WST (world storage technologies) mech. You probably also have an EPROM ROM... (faster head stepping time compared to Tandon ROM!)

 

another pic from the same thread: the wires should all coming out one side.. maybe just check they're not all shifted by 1 pin or something

IMG_0393.JPG

 

 

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Yup. That’s it. My plugs are all inserted correctly then. Hmm. 
Has to be faulty ICs then. :( Maybe I’ll give the drive switches another shot of cleaner.  It’s odd actually. They move really loose and easily. On my working 1050 they are tight and slide more with a definitive click.  Different manufacturer? 

Edited by YSG2020
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Try seeing if the behaviour changes when powering up with the ROM removed - this should normally result in a dead drive: power light, but no disk activity, no spinning.

 

or removing the 6810 SRAM: Should result in drive motor cycling on/off, or unresponsive drive again (Can't remember which)

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  • 3 months later...
On 3/20/2020 at 1:28 AM, YSG2020 said:

I knew when I bought this 1050 drive at the garage sale it would be the non-working item in the collection. Sure enough, when it’s switched on, it just runs/spins with the LED on constantly.  Doesn’t stop, regardless of the latch being closed or not. Doesn’t do the self diagnostic spin and then stop. It just keeps spinning...  Computer doesn’t even recognize it’s connected. No response nor errors. Nothing. On the upside, with a disk in it, it seems to spin it at the correct rpm so it would appear the belts are ok. Any ideas where to start (besides the dumpster?) Thx. 

@YSG2020 Did you ever figure out the problem and get it fixed? One of mine started doing the same thing recently, and there is nothing in the Atari or Sam's 1050 service manuals trouble-shooting symptoms for drives that just won't stop spinning. I've swapped out the 6532, OS, 6510 and 6507 with no change, and of course made sure wire harnesses are plugged in properly and good PSU is used. I'm guessing it's a support chip issue or basic component failure at this point, but am hoping for a clear answer to what's wrong so I don't have to start following circuits and testing everything.

Edited by Gunstar
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