Floppy Drive head lubricant dispenser ??

[KLund1]

I have been using white lithium grease on floppy drive rails for quite a while. I believe it is about the best for this type of use.

But the problem is that the can is under pressure. I only need a few drops on a Q-Tip not a full 3 foot spray like for door hinges or something big. It is very hard to press the trigger just enough for a small amount. Plus the can needs a minute or two of shaking to mix it up. The similar issue also for WD40 I use for cleaning.

Any ideas for a solution that might work in a dispenser like this: You press the top a couple times and just enough comes up to soak a Q-Tip.

https://www.amazon.com/Stainless-Dispenser-durAstatic-Density-Polyethylene/dp/B00DK2BGIK/ref=sr_1_3?dchild=1&keywords=isopropyl+alcohol+electronics+dispenser&qid=1593666097&sr=8-3

Thanks

[_The Doctor__]

don't know, I always use a precision needle lubricant dispenser... WD40 dries out, grease is never recommended (the rails aren't a worm drive). I stick with Teflon, Graphite, and silicon... the 1050 Tandon is a low torque drive with decent power use and makes heat, grease doesn't help much, unless your really just applying it and wiping most of it off, but I can see it drying and thickening leading to more cleaning and application sessions ... rather stick with isopropyl and WD40 for cleaning and finish off with the lubes.

Edited July 2, 2020 by _The Doctor__

[KLund1]

7 minutes ago, _The Doctor__ said:

rather stick with isopropyl and WD40 for cleaning and finish off with the lubes.

This is what I do, but need a better way to get the lube out of the can in small amounts. Could post a picture, or link of what lubricant us use that has a "precision needle lubricant dispenser"?

Thanks

[_The Doctor__]

I don't normally use ebay or amazon... so I did a quick search and found this one right away

https://www.ebay.com/itm/New-Dupont-Teflon-Oiler-Oil-in-1-2oz-Refillable-Bottle-with-Needle-OPO-05/292737738307?hash=item4428876643:g:RtQAAOSwEJlbpSE~

it's not going to dry out and when mixed very well a single drop or two is all that's needed for years.. make sure to let the needle suck air back in between applications that way when you need it you are sure the mixing is done and that mix is 100% what is fed out.

 You can by buy the empty precision needle oil/lube offerings and fill with whatever you wish.

plenty of others, including light dust and dirt resistant gun and sewing machine oils... make sure that it's the good stuff though, I wouldn't get some of them on the white case plastic though... never get the cleaning and dissolving oil of those types!

dry film or slip plate product can be used as well but I only use those during complete tear downs and removal/reinstall of rails etc.

[E474]

Hi,

 

   I use lithium grease from a tube, I think I got it from a bike shop, and it's not under any sort of pressure (you just squeeze it out like toothpaste). I think it would have been the equivalent of $2-3, and is probably good for several years of bike maintenance, or several decades of 1050 maintenance.

[gilsaluki]

19 minutes ago, E474 said:

Hi,

 

   I use lithium grease from a tube, I think I got it from a bike shop, and it's not under any sort of pressure (you just squeeze it out like toothpaste). I think it would have been the equivalent of $2-3, and is probably good for several years of bike maintenance, or several decades of 1050 maintenance.

This is what I do as well.  Never an issue.

[cwilbar]

I too have been using lithium grease from a tube.  Though since it 'plows' the grease up (most of it) into a mass at the ends of travel I've been thinking of trying a good sythentic lightweight oil for the guide rod.  I think the oil would better self distribute more evenly.  For anyone who has tried both, any pros/cons you've noted ?  Either/or last more between 'maintenance' windows (i.e. 25 years for grease vs 15 for oil ? ) ?

 

 

 

 

[Mathy]

Hello KLund1

 

If you're gonna use a Q-tip anyhow, why not spray some of the lube in a bottle cap or something similar and dip the Q-tip into that.

 

Sincerely

 

Mathy

 

PS wouldn't a really thin layer of vaseline do the trick?  The kind that's OK for babyskins?

 

Edited July 2, 2020 by Mathy

[StickJock]

I use silicone spray, sprayed into the cap from the can, and applied with a q-tip.

[_The Doctor__]

Natural Oils as well as mixtures of neatsfoot, mineral oils, are only temporarily satisfactory, after a passage of time in contact with metals they change chemically and form a gummy substance. Synthetic Oils have the same lubricating properties as natural oils, but will not change over a period of time, so they will not gum up, cause corrosion, become acidic, creep, or spread. Some petroleum distillates change over times as well and become gummy hard or crusty sometimes making clear hard build up you can't easily see or remove.

 

Like I said... I have my reasons.

Edited July 3, 2020 by _The Doctor__

[KLund1]

Thanks everyone. I VERY much appreciate all the advice, and help I find here in this great community!

[+Nezgar]

Tiny amount of dielectric synthetic grease on the rails (applied with q-tip) much cleaner than lithium grease:

https://www.canadiantire.ca/en/pdp/permatex-multi-purpose-synthetic-grease-85-g-0280813p.html?rrec=true#spc

 

For the spindle, top pressure ring, squeaky eject mechanism, etc I use 3-in-one oil:

https://www.canadiantire.ca/en/pdp/3-in-one-multi-purpose-oil-88-ml-0387807p.html#srp

 

I used to use the 3-in-one on the rails too, but since its a light oil it doesn't 'fill the space' between the rail and the guide as long - so I found the grease keeps the stepping 'quieter' longer.

Edited July 20, 2020 by Nezgar

[Gunstar]

I use the same as many of you. Lithium grease out of a tube with a Q-tip and 3-in-1 oil on the spindle, etc. My drives are all very quite.

[+davidcalgary29]

Okay, I'm about to embark on a Quest to Clean My 1050s for the first time...ever. Can anyone post a diagram on where to apply lubricants and where to use alcohol on the drive parts? I've searched through various threads and youtube videos, but there's lots of conflicting advice.

[StickJock]

I lube everywhere that two things rub on each other.  Basically, all of the moving parts.  The rails are the obvious thing, but if you move the front lever, you will see several other places along the lever shaft that also rub on other pieces.  Those won't do anything to quiet the drive during operation, but they will help to reduce wear when opening/closing the drive lever.

 

[+davidcalgary29]

Right, but "lube" with which lubricant in what areas?

[Gunstar]

I "lube" what spins with 3-in-1 oil, just a small drop down the center and I "lube" what moves back and forth with lithium grease. I'd show you with pictures, but my drives are all back together right now and I don't want to take them apart again for a while. How often I do it is when they aren't staying quite anymore, which is about once every year or two.

Edited July 20, 2020 by Gunstar

[+davidcalgary29]

I've ordered Nezgar's magic lubes from Canadian Tire and will begin The Experiments later this week. You think that someone would have published a pictorial guide to "Basic Maintenance of the Floppy Drive and Media" long before now (three ring or spiral bound, please, for budding entrepreneurs out there).

 

...

 

You know what? We should each do a chapter (or a page) and then post it as a sticky even if a printed version is never made.

[E474]

Hi @davidcalgary29,

 

    You might want to clean the drive head with IPA (wipes or liquid) if you have the drive open. I do this as an extra step as I can't see the harm. Q-tips usually yield some contamination, so it's probably a good idea.

[KLund1]

58 minutes ago, E474 said:

 Q-tips usually yield some contamination, so it's probably a good idea.

 

With clean fingers, I spin the q-tip to get the fibers 'aliened'. this usually stops any fibers lingering after cleaning. a quick check with a magnifying glass is also a good idea.

[E474]

Hi @KLund1,

 

   I never thought of doing that - I just meant that the Q-tips usually look a bit dirty after cleaning the drive head, so I guess the drive head looks a bit cleaner.

[Keatah]

When using Q-Tips I just go at it. I rotate the Q-Tip as I move it across the surface - like a wheel, but spin it in reverse. So that as the Q-Tip hits debris it is immediately lifted up and away. Not smeared, not ground-in.