I toasted a JAG last night

[Phantom]

*salutes*

 

Man, we lose more good Jags that way. I'm always careful about that though, because I read the horror stories on this board before I bought my Jag.

Tell me about it LOL. I am the same way with mine from reading this thread before.

The original Poster fried 2 of em. I'd be so mad I'd make sure that I checked it everytime I went to plug it in that it was the correct AC and now I do as if it were I that fried 2 Jags

[mr-atari]

Thanks for the info, I just got 1 jaguar back to life (with sound!).

Replaced all 3 parts and it works great.

2 more dead jags to go.....

 

Sijmen.

 

Few years ago, I have bought a died Jaguar. This Jaguar was died as yours : an error of polarity of the AC/DC converter.

 

I have repared it and now it is my special development and test Jag.

 

I think that it is possible to repair yours as mine.

 

To prossess to the reparation, you must have experiences in SMT soldering : It's very important because componants on motherboard are very little and 2 componants to change on 3 are SMT.

 

 

 

1) First, you must open the Jag (and the iron cage).

 

 

2) Once the Jag is open, search the capacitor C134 (330uF 16V) just above the U38.

In my Jag, this componant was blow up.

 

 

You must remove this capacitor. Do not replace it before the next instruction : it will be

easier to replace the next componant.

 

3) You can see the U38 (MC34163DW) in the right of the MC68000 and below the C134.

 

This componant is a power switching regulator (9V->5V 3A MAX) and it doesn't like very well when the polarity is inverted. So, it is it that toast. Maybe you could see a distortion on the surface of this componant as shown below (maybe not as important as mine):

 

 

You shall replace it with the same part.

 

!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

!!!!!!!!!!!!!!WARNING : BE CARFUL WHEN YOU SOLD SMTs!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

 

If you don't find the MC34163DW you can use the MC33163DW, the difference is in the operating temperature range : the MC34163DW = 0 to 70°C and the MC33163DW = -40 to 85°C.

 

When you have replace the U38, you can replace the C134.

 

4) Another componant shall be replaced : it is the REG1 (LM78L05ACM) (in the sound circuit).

This componant is a DC/DC converter (9V->5V 100mA MAX) and it is used for the audio power.

As the U38, if it is died, you can see a distortion on the surface as below :

 

 

 

If it is died, you don't have sound when the Jag works.

 

You shall replace it with the same part.

 

 

Normally, if you replace their componants with success, your Jag could work.

 

 

The reparation cost 5,2 euros HT for the France.

 

Regards.

[pseudo_intellectual]

As it happens I received a Jaguar with this apparently very common problem. I have obvious damage to U38, and the magic smoke in C134 appears not to have escaped. I'm also preemptively replacing REG1; I see voltage on VIN but nothing on VOUT.

 

I'm scratching my head as to how the original owner managed to reverse-bias the power input. The thing shipped with the original power supply. Maybe he/she was working in the dark and grabbed the wrong adapter.

 

Anyway, the regulators have been desoldered and the parts are in my shopping cart. Before I pull the trigger, I was curious if anyone has found other manifestations of using the wrong power supply so I have all my bases covered.

 

Also, has anyone bothered to put in any kind of protection diode as a modification? If so, how did you go about it?

[Jag_Slave]

As it happens I received a Jaguar with this apparently very common problem. I have obvious damage to U38, and the magic smoke in C134 appears not to have escaped. I'm also preemptively replacing REG1; I see voltage on VIN but nothing on VOUT.

 

I'm scratching my head as to how the original owner managed to reverse-bias the power input. The thing shipped with the original power supply. Maybe he/she was working in the dark and grabbed the wrong adapter.

 

Anyway, the regulators have been desoldered and the parts are in my shopping cart. Before I pull the trigger, I was curious if anyone has found other manifestations of using the wrong power supply so I have all my bases covered.

 

Also, has anyone bothered to put in any kind of protection diode as a modification? If so, how did you go about it?

 

Where ya been since 2009!?!?

[Austin]

http://youtu.be/x7KK7bXJV2c

[Hyper_Eye]

Man... I started this thread back in 2004. This thing has really been yanked from the grave.

 

My fried jags were repaired using the guide posted above. I can't solder worth a damn so my neighbor did it for me. I also had him fix one that came into a local game store. Replacing the listed components has not failed to bring units he has worked on back to life yet.

[Zerosquare]

I'm scratching my head as to how the original owner managed to reverse-bias the power input. The thing shipped with the original power supply. Maybe he/she was working in the dark and grabbed the wrong adapter.

This is very likely, and you don't even need to be in the dark. If you have several power supplies with the same plug and the usual mess of cables, it's bound to happen sooner or later.

 

We can thank Atari for using a very common plug, reversing the polarity compared to the majority of other power supplies, and not actually including the reverse-polarity protection diode that's shown on the Jaguar schematic. You can almost see the marketing guy thinking "PROFIT !!"

 

Anyway, the regulators have been desoldered and the parts are in my shopping cart. Before I pull the trigger, I was curious if anyone has found other manifestations of using the wrong power supply so I have all my bases covered.

Beside the power supplies sections, I have never heard of another part of the Jaguar being damaged by a reversed polarity.

[pseudo_intellectual]

Man... I started this thread back in 2004. This thing has really been yanked from the grave.

 

My fried jags were repaired using the guide posted above. I can't solder worth a damn so my neighbor did it for me. I also had him fix one that came into a local game store. Replacing the listed components has not failed to bring units he has worked on back to life yet.

 

When I did a search for "U38", I discovered that there were tons of topics concerning the voltage regulators already. Wanting to ask a related question without creating a brand new post, I picked a topic and tacked my question on the end of it. It wasn't my intention to dredge unpleasant memories

[Tyrant]

When I did a search for "U38", I discovered that there were tons of topics concerning the voltage regulators already. Wanting to ask a related question without creating a brand new post, I picked a topic and tacked my question on the end of it. It wasn't my intention to dredge unpleasant memories

I personally think that it's a good idea to occasionally bump informative threads like this one, and at least you did the smart thing and used the search form first.

 

Good luck with your repair.