bjk7382 Posted February 3, 2005 Share Posted February 3, 2005 So is it possible for me to fix this? I was thinking that since it is a one sided board that I could just glue the circuit board pieces back together and then scrape the insulation off the broken traces and just solder them back together. I don't know if that is a bad idea since there is high voltage in a monitor. Also if I can't repair this, can I buy a new board for this monitor somewhere? Not sure what kind it is, or where to look for the tag with that info on it. I think I seen an RCA tag on the back of it, but I will have to check again (it isn't sitting right in front of me) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cassidy Nolen Posted February 3, 2005 Share Posted February 3, 2005 Thats GRAVY to fix, man! Easy as can be Just secure the two halves in some way (maybe a piece of plastic epoxied to the top side) and solder in some jumper wires. Done that plenty of times on the neck boards. Used to do repairs for a rental company that did games. They were constantly breaking crap like that... sometimes even pcb's! Man, thats no biggie. Just be careful that you do not cross traces. Make solid, clean solder spots and you are good to go... Cassidy Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ralph3 Posted February 3, 2005 Share Posted February 3, 2005 I have seen one fixed in a way you mentioned but you have to pay attention to the higher voltages and use the proper sized wires for the correct jumps or you will have hot/burnt wire mess all over. If you can find the model number on the tube you can post on arcade moniter parts help sites and you can find the proper board to use. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bjk7382 Posted February 3, 2005 Author Share Posted February 3, 2005 Thats GRAVY to fix, man! Easy as can be Just secure the two halves in some way (maybe a piece of plastic epoxied to the top side) and solder in some jumper wires. Done that plenty of times on the neck boards. Used to do repairs for a rental company that did games. They were constantly breaking crap like that... sometimes even pcb's! Man, thats no biggie. Just be careful that you do not cross traces. Make solid, clean solder spots and you are good to go... Cassidy Thanks for the quick replies guys. That makes me feel a lot better knowing that I should just be able to solder it back up. Do I have to use jumper wires on the traces or can I just get them close enough and melt them together? I guess I will go start prepping it and glue it together. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cassidy Nolen Posted February 3, 2005 Share Posted February 3, 2005 Ralph's right. Go bigger than smaller on wire selection. I usually tin all my wire ends well before I connnect. Then a small puddle of solder on each trace and you'll be done in no time. Looks like you are in the vertical deflection section of the monitor, so you should be careful about the voltages. If you had to, I would imagine 12 gauge or 14 (lamp cord wire range) would be good for the larger traces, smaller stuff for the thinner ones. Dont try to flow solder over the two when they are close. That might "look" like it will work, but its a cheapo fix, and will give you headaches later. Cassidy Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bjk7382 Posted February 3, 2005 Author Share Posted February 3, 2005 Dont try to flow solder over the two when they are close. That might "look" like it will work, but its a cheapo fix, and will give you headaches later. Cassidy Alright, thanks for that tip. I'll let you know how it goes with the wires. I also might need help when it comes time to put it in the cabinet to test it. I just got the cabinet (Mr. Do in a Defender cab) and it came with the broken circuit board on the monitor (well it was refurbished before the board was broken, so everything should be okay after I fix this) Also the cabinet is in pretty rough shape (but came with 3 mr. do boards, one of which, hopefully works) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
povlok1 Posted February 3, 2005 Share Posted February 3, 2005 Ill post a pic of a repaired brd tonight for you. . What I do, I use some new resisters.. just to use the long wire leads.. I solder the wire (bend as needed) and follow the circuit path and solder the wire the entire way the whole path of the circuit, no need to even glue the ciruit board after this repair;). New resisters work great for this just because they are convienant and usually have long leads. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stingray Posted February 3, 2005 Share Posted February 3, 2005 That's a great suggestion Povlok. I usually clip the leads off of resistors and just let them fall into my toolbox. There must be 100 of them in there. I finally have a use for them. Now I just need to break a PCB so I can fix it. -S Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bjk7382 Posted February 3, 2005 Author Share Posted February 3, 2005 I used some resistor leads for the small traces, and I think the board looked (and tested with a continuity tester) just fine. I got all the connections back on there and fired it up and found that the guy that sold it to me may have been lying about it being a refurb. monitor. All I get is a vertical line with a partial picture. (see pic) I have tried all the adjustments on the monitor (and what is in the pic is as good as it gets) And It may have to do with my solder job, but I am pretty confident that have good connects on there. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
That80sGuy Posted February 4, 2005 Share Posted February 4, 2005 Just save yourself some agravation and get another monitor chasis for it. If you have the name and model of the old one I know a guy that might have an extra chasis for sale cheap. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cassidy Nolen Posted February 4, 2005 Share Posted February 4, 2005 What chassis is it? I may have a spare....looked from the shot like a WG K7000, but could not see the whole thing. The break was in the vertical deflection section of the chassis, so that looks about right. Looks to me like there is still a trace broken somewhere. Either that, or one of the vertical deflection transistors is bad. Common fix on some monitors. Cassidy Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bjk7382 Posted February 4, 2005 Author Share Posted February 4, 2005 Just save yourself some agravation and get another monitor chasis for it. If you have the name and model of the old one I know a guy that might have an extra chasis for sale cheap. The thing is, the monitor isn't in great shape and I was just trying to get it up and running at no cost so I can play some Mr. Do. As you can see the monitor is horribly burned so if I was going to buy anything, it would be a new monitor. As it is now I just want to get it running for free I guess I will take the chassis back off and check my connections again. Also while I have it off is there anyway to test the transistors? I know they are the little black things with 3 legs comming out. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bjk7382 Posted February 4, 2005 Author Share Posted February 4, 2005 Alright I got it going. It turns out it WAS my fault. I forgot to resolder one of the resistors after I did all the traces But it doesn't end there. About a half hour after I get it running, and I am adjusting the colors, and the speaker pops. Now I get no sound It does have a seperate sound board with two fuses on it an neither one is blown. Any ideas? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cassidy Nolen Posted February 4, 2005 Share Posted February 4, 2005 Good job! Its up and running! Check for 12 Volts on the power supply, and also check the speaker. Should be a 4 or 8 ohm job. Old speakers do just "die" sometimes. Don't replace with too big of one (cheapo just like the original). C Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bjk7382 Posted February 4, 2005 Author Share Posted February 4, 2005 Oh, I forgot to mention that I got shocked BAD two time while trying to get that damn red wire out of the monitor. Is there any safe way to discharge that? Or how long does it take to dissapate? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Artlover Posted February 4, 2005 Share Posted February 4, 2005 Oh, I forgot to mention that I got shocked BAD two time while trying to get that damn red wire out of the monitor. Is there any safe way to discharge that? Or how long does it take to dissapate? Tubes can hold a charge for weeks, even longer. Need to ground it out to drain it. Connect a fairly heavy guage (18-16) wire to a good ground source (like a metal pipe ran into the ground), then get a 4' wooden stick or dowel rod, tape the other end of the wire to one end of the stick, with some of it sticking out off the end where you can poke it under the rubber boot. Hold the other end of the stick, and stick the pointy bit of wire on the other end under the boot. Obviously, don't have the wire running down the lenght of the stick, just dangling down off the work end. Key is keeping some distance between you and the wire & hv connector. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ralph3 Posted February 4, 2005 Share Posted February 4, 2005 YOU ARE LUCKY TO BE ALIVE! That is high voltage you are f'ing around with! You are supposed to discharge it by grounding it to the chassis. That is VERY DANGEROUS! Do it least 3 or 4 times at a few minute intervals before removing. I use a screwdriver with a ground wire attached to it to the chassis. Wou will hear a small crackle sound when you do it. Scary the first time, but not as scary as damn near electrocuting yourself not doing it correctly. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bjk7382 Posted February 4, 2005 Author Share Posted February 4, 2005 I didn't know if it was bad for it to just ground it out or what. Still no sound. The 12v is fine at the power supply, as well as the 5v. I also tested other speakers on it and still nothing. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cassidy Nolen Posted February 4, 2005 Share Posted February 4, 2005 FTWIW, http://atarionline.com/acade_fixing_info.html I don't know html well, so its boring to look at. Maybe you could get some good pointers on there. Tells how I disconnect monitor high voltages. 19" tubes aren't too bad. Its the big ones that really spank you Cassidy Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
That80sGuy Posted February 4, 2005 Share Posted February 4, 2005 Discharging a monitor safely: http://www.twistedmods.com/article.php?art...rtid=213&page=2 Be carful around arcade machines the voltages around the monitor can kill you if you do not use proper safety procedures. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stingray Posted February 4, 2005 Share Posted February 4, 2005 FTWIW, http://atarionline.com/acade_fixing_info.html I don't know html well, so its boring to look at. Maybe you could get some good pointers on there. Tells how I disconnect monitor high voltages. That was a good read Cassidy, thanks for taking th time to write it up. -S Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bjk7382 Posted February 5, 2005 Author Share Posted February 5, 2005 Yeah, I wish I would have seen that page before I started working on this Here is a picture of the sound board that is in there. And I don't think it is original because of the way it is hooked up. Also it looks different than the one I seen in the Mr Do pdf manual on klov. Also is it possible that it blew something out on the main board because the wrong amp was used? I checked the voltage regulator on the sound board and it is 12v in and 5v out. Any ideas on how much a new sound board would be, what they would be called if I searched for one on ebay. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
That80sGuy Posted February 5, 2005 Share Posted February 5, 2005 A friend of mine has a MrDo!. I'll ask if he has an extra sound board for sale. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cassidy Nolen Posted February 5, 2005 Share Posted February 5, 2005 Thanks, Sting! Not sure if it was worth doing. Maybe somebody can use it On that Do!... Man, that is some wiring job! Very nice "on-site" fix. I am not proud of some repairs I have made in my times.....oh well, the Game Gods will get even later...looks like they'll be getting even with this tech too! I would start by reflowing solder to those pins that are being used. You said it just "went"? If that large heatsink (towards the top of the board) is getting hot, maybe try hitting with some cool spray or canned air (available at Radio Shack, and super helpful for heat-related diagnostics...). Cool it down and see if it comes back on. No sound at all, I would really check for: -12 and 5 Volts where it needs to be. You can run 12-16 on the 12 Volts side, but I would stay 5.00-5.25 on my 5 Volt input. -Wire that came off -Bad Solder on those pins going in and out of the board -Reseat (doesn't look like you can on the sound board) chips in that area (look on the schematic, and see if you can find what roms are the sound data; give them a good push back in) -Replace those fuses, EVEN if they test good. I have had more fuse trouble this last year. You'd think I had never fixed a game before (had like 3 Ms. Pacs with crap go wrong/wierd and it all was fuses). -I know you said the speaker tested good, just be sure. Maybe hook in another if you have one around. C Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bjk7382 Posted February 5, 2005 Author Share Posted February 5, 2005 Okay I have checked the continuity of every wire going from the speaker, to the main board, and to the amp. Everything, including the 12v and 5v check out okay. I do have 3 mr do boards and I got one of the other ones working, but I don't want to half ass the amp in there the way this one is, so I just broke down and bought one of these http://www.mikesarcade.com/cgi-bin/store.p...nk&sku=AMP4WATT Hopefully it will do the trick and I can get it wired in the "right way", and not by hacking traces on the board. And I am to assume the right way is to put the wires of the amp harness into the back of the main wire harness? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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